I listen to the river rushing down in the valley and the soft rain drops hitting the tent. It’s 3 am. Yesterday was the first time in a long time that I drank directly from a stream.
It tasted like adventure with a hint of moss and ancient ice stored up high in the mountain.
There’s no need for boiling or filtering water here. When it is moving water, you can drink from it.
The next days will be filled with wild water. I wonder what it will do to my body and mind.
I get up around 04:00 am while the rain is still hitting the tent’s ceiling. I take out my notebook and write down some morning thoughts. I make coffee.
I look at my things and start repacking the backpack. I use a proper dry bag inside the backpack as a waterproof lining. Within sleeping back and a dry set of clothes that I will use every evening at camp. On top of the dry bag, the inner tent will sit, wrapped in a plastic bag to also stay as dry as possible.
The rain stops, almost perfectly on time, and I break camp and get back on the trail by 05:20 am.
I follow along the valley with rolling mountains on both sides, formed by glaciers, retreating not too long ago in earth‘s terms.
The ground is changing between rocks and sponge, boardwalks are switching with muddy, puddled paths. I’m glad it’s already pretty cold because this would be otherwise mosquito downtown.
The fog is still hanging over the lakes when my attention gets caught by a movement along the low ridge in front of me. Two moose are stepping out, watching me as I watch them, and my brain is overwhelmed by the beauty of this morning.
I have to smile at how perfect it feels to be out here when the wind suddenly picks up and smashes a wall of rain into my face.
It’s 14:00 and I can’t walk any further. I’m done. I got pretty soaked after this morning’s smooth start, just before reaching the shelter at Alesjaure. The sun came out and I had a small window of sunshine around noon, before racing the weather in trying to find a good spot for the night before the heavier rains would come.
„This is good enough“, I think and start setting up the tent. I can’t believe how tired I am. I made around 28 km today and I guess this has been a little too much. The bad weather forecast just made me really want to get as far as possible. So, here I am, absolutely knackered and hungry.
I set up the tent and make a coffee when the rains are starting. I am munching on knäckebröd, coconut oil, and self-made trail mix. I admit I have been thinking way too often today about the warm meal I would be getting for dinner.
The quality not being that important, but a hot meal, man, that sounded so good when wind and rain hit my face.
I wait til 16:30 before starting to make dinner. More than once I had a throwback to New Zealand today. The landscape looks so similar to the southern island, the hike like a mix of Milford and Kepler Track. And now some hot dehydrated food with the annoying 8 minute waiting time… 8 minutes never felt so long.
The wind is picking up with strong gusts coming from a different direction. I feel some water coming into the tent from the outer layer smashed onto the inner layer. This will be the whole night. I guess this night will be a bit more crammed inside as I can’t leave boots or backpack in the vestibule.
It’s cold and I wrap myself into the sleeping bag. There is nothing like a shelter and a hot meal
I check the weather forecast for tomorrow one more time. Tomorrow looks mostly dry again but there’s even worse weather coming the day after tomorrow. I make the plan to try to be at Kebnekaise by then.
I hope the tent will hold up.
